Places to Visit in Karnataka

The Vijayanagara Empire, which ruled from Hampi between 1336 and 1565, left behind one of the most extraordinary archaeological landscapes on earth: forty square kilometres of temples, market streets, royal enclosures, and tank systems carved from the same granite boulders the landscape is made of. After the empire's fall at the Battle of Talikota, the capital was systematically destroyed, but what survived is enough to occupy scholars for lifetimes and travellers for days.

Bengaluru — still called Bangalore by most of its residents — has reinvented itself several times: garden city, defence-research hub, software capital, and now, uneasily, a city wrestling with its own infrastructure. Its craft beer scene and a clutch of serious bookshops exist alongside Lalbagh Botanical Garden, laid out in the eighteenth century by Hyder Ali and expanded by his son Tipu Sultan.

The Coorg highlands and Chikkamagaluru's coffee estates offer a sharply different register — mist, cardamom, and laterite-mud homestays. Karnataka's Udupi cuisine — the fermented batter of the dosa, the tamarind-soured sambar — has colonised every Indian city but tastes truest here, particularly in the temple towns along the coast where it originated. Travel between November and February; the monsoon retreats by October, and March brings a fierce heat to the interior plateau.